Frequently asked questions

Yes — every estimate is free and no-obligation. We visit your property, assess the work, and give you a flat-rate quote. No surprises on the invoice.

Fully. Our crews are insured and our arborists are ISA Certified, so both your property and the people working on it are protected.

We serve all cities in the DFW metroplex and surrounding North Texas towns — Arlington, Fort Worth, Dallas, Mansfield, Grand Prairie and beyond. See our Service Areas page for the full list.

Always. Haul-off and cleanup are part of every job — many customers tell us the yard looks better than before we arrived.

Yes. We take emergency calls Monday through Saturday, 7am–9pm. If a tree or limb is threatening your home, call us first at 817-992-6670.

Every job is different — size, species, location and access all matter — so we give a free, flat-rate quote on site. No surprises are added to the invoice.

We can grind the stump below grade in the same visit, or fully extract it. Just let us know when we quote the job.

Yes. Tight, high-risk removals are routine for us — we use rigging and, when needed, a crane to lower sections in a controlled way.

Fully. Our crews are insured and our arborists are ISA Certified, so your property and our people are protected.

It depends on your city and whether the tree sits in a protected class or an easement. Many DFW municipalities regulate large or heritage trees on residential lots. We can tell you what usually applies locally, but confirm specifics with your city before we schedule the work.

Yes. We plan the drop zones, use rigging or a crane to lower heavy sections rather than dropping them, and lay down protection where equipment travels. Tight backyards and trees over fences are routine for us, though very soft, saturated clay may call for extra care.

That comes down to how much of the structure is left. A tree that has lost more than roughly half its crown, or has a split trunk, usually will not recover safely. Our arborist will inspect it and give you a straight recommendation rather than removing something that could be preserved.

Most established trees benefit from pruning every 2–3 years; young trees benefit from lighter structural pruning more often. We'll recommend a schedule.

Topping is cutting a tree back to stubs. It's harmful — it invites decay and weak regrowth. We prune to proper standards instead.

For many species, dormant-season pruning is ideal. For oaks in particular we avoid the high-risk oak-wilt window. We time cuts by species.

Avoid pruning oaks from roughly February through June, when the beetles that spread oak wilt are most active. The safest window is the dormant heat of mid to late summer or winter. If a storm forces an emergency cut in spring, we seal the wound immediately to reduce the risk.

As a rule we remove no more than about a quarter of the live canopy in a single season, and less on older or stressed trees. Cutting too much at once starves the tree and triggers weak, excessive regrowth. Heavy corrections are better staged over a couple of years.

Light, correct pruning encourages blooms, but the hard stubbing many people do to crape myrtles each year, often called crape murder, is not necessary and weakens the plant over time. We thin out crossing and pencil-thin growth and remove seed heads instead of chopping the trunks back.

Typically several inches below grade — enough to sod or replant. Deeper if you're building over the spot; just let us know.

Grinding handles the stump and surface roots. For full root removal we can extract the stump entirely — common before construction.

We can rake them back into the hole as mulch/backfill or haul them off — your preference.

Not directly in the same spot right away. Grindings and leftover root wood tie up nitrogen and leave voids as they decay. If you want to replant there, we can dig out the grindings and backfill with soil, or you can shift the new tree a few feet over for a healthier start.

Most residential stumps take under an hour once we have access to them. Size, wood hardness, and how many surface roots you want chased out all factor in. Our machines are compact enough to fit through a standard gate, so backyard stumps are usually no problem in our area.

Grinding removes the stump and major surface roots, and the remaining roots no longer have a trunk to feed them, so they die back and decay in place over the next few years. For species that sucker aggressively you may see a few sprouts, which are easy to knock back until the roots exhaust themselves.

A tree or limb on your house, car or powerline; a split or leaning trunk; or anything blocking safe access. When in doubt, call — we'll advise.

We take emergency calls Monday through Saturday, 7am–9pm. Call 817-992-6670.

Yes — we can photograph and document the damage and our work to support your claim.

Keep everyone well clear of the tree and anything it is touching, and stay out of rooms directly under a damaged section of roof. Do not try to move limbs yourself. If wires are involved, treat them as live and call your utility. Then call us at 817-992-6670 and we will guide you.

Yes. Trees that cross a property line are common after storms, and we can clear the whole situation. Who pays is worked out between the parties and their insurers, but we will document where the tree originated and where it landed so everyone has the record they need.

Our focus is getting the tree off the structure safely and cutting it back so it cannot shift again. We can place a temporary tarp to limit further water intrusion until a roofer makes permanent repairs, and our damage photos help both your insurer and the roofing contractor understand the scope.

Cabling reduces the risk of failure and buys years, but it's not permanent or a cure — we'll set an inspection schedule and tell you honestly if removal is safer.

Cables and braces sit high in the canopy and are largely unobtrusive from the ground.

Tight V-shaped trunk unions, long heavy limbs, or existing cracks are common signs. A free assessment will tell you.

No. Installed to industry standards, the hardware supports the tree without harming it. Cables sit high in the canopy on properly sized anchors, and brace rods are placed so the tree can seal around them over time. Improper or homeowner-installed hardware is what causes damage, which is why professional placement matters.

There is no fixed lifespan, but the system should be inspected periodically as the tree grows and adds weight. Hardware can loosen, and anchor points can change as wood expands. In North Texas we usually suggest a look after major ice or wind events, since those loads are exactly what the cables are there to handle.

Cabling works best on structurally sound trees with a specific weak point worth protecting. If a tree already has extensive decay, a hollow trunk, or multiple failing unions, hardware may only delay the inevitable. An arborist will inspect the wood quality first and tell you honestly whether support or removal is the safer call.

Not necessarily — it could be heat/drought stress, a watering issue, disease or pests. A diagnosis pinpoints the cause so we treat the right problem.

A serious fungal disease that spreads between oaks. Pruning timing and prompt management are key in North Texas — we can evaluate and advise.

Often, if caught early. Some are too far gone and are safer removed — we'll give you an honest assessment either way.

No. In North Texas, avoid pruning oaks from roughly February through June, when the beetles that spread oak wilt are most active. Fresh cuts attract them to open wounds. When storm damage forces an off-season cut, the wound should be painted right away to reduce the risk of infection.

Most established trees in decent soil do not need routine fertilizer, and overfeeding can push weak growth. The better approach is a soil test to see what is actually missing. In compacted clay, correcting soil structure and adding organic matter usually helps more than a heavy dose of nitrogen.

Water deeply and infrequently during dry spells, out at the drip line rather than at the trunk, and keep a wide ring of mulch that is not piled against the bark. Most of the decline we see in the metroplex starts with drought stress and compacted root zones, both of which good watering and mulching address.

Natives and proven performers like live oak, cedar elm, pecan, Texas red oak, cypress and crape myrtle handle our soil and heat well. We'll recommend for your site.

Fall through early spring is ideal in North Texas — cooler weather helps roots establish before summer heat.

Established trees up to a certain size can be transplanted with root-pruning and proper lifting. We'll assess whether it's a good candidate.

It depends on the mature spread, but a large shade tree generally belongs well away from the foundation, often twenty feet or more. On the expansive clay common here, large trees close to a slab can affect soil moisture near the foundation, so placement and species choice both matter.

Often not. A tree that can flex in the wind builds a stronger trunk and root system. Staking is worth it only for top-heavy or bare-root stock, or in very windy spots, and the ties should be loose and removed within a year so the tree does not become dependent on them.

As a rule of thumb, figure about one year of establishment for every inch of trunk diameter. During that window the tree needs consistent water, especially through North Texas summers. Once the roots have spread well beyond the original ball, you can taper off the supplemental watering.

A tool that uses high-pressure air to move soil away from roots without cutting or bruising them — ideal for inspecting and treating the root zone.

A thinning canopy, a trunk that enters the ground like a telephone pole (no visible root flare), or heaving pavement can all point to root issues.

Often, yes — relieving compaction helps roots take up spring water and nutrients, which supports overall health.

No. That is the point of using air instead of a shovel or machine. Compressed air breaks apart soil while leaving the woody and fine roots intact, so the tree keeps the root mass it depends on. Only the problem roots, such as those girdling the trunk, are deliberately pruned afterward.

It can be done in most seasons, but the milder stretches of fall and early spring are ideal, since the tree is under less heat stress and roots respond well. We generally avoid doing major root work during the peak of summer drought, when the tree already has little margin to recover.

Lawn aeration pulls small plugs from the top few inches for turf. Tree root-zone aeration works deeper and wider, loosening compacted soil throughout the critical root area and often adding organic matter. The aim is to restore air and water flow to the tree's roots, not just to green up the grass above them.